Antarctica by Denise

February 2010

Now in Buenos Aires after a most fantastic journey!

We were chased on board, last on, taking so many photos and filled with excitement about our voyage.

We survived Drake Passage, despite relatively heavy seas with a few people going to their cabins.  Managed to go to all the lectures on birds, seals and whales, Shackleton, lifeboat drill, zodiac drill (the last two compulsory of course,  falling asleep in parts due medication!)    With good weather on the horizon the Akademik Sergei Vavilov headed straight towards the Antarctic Circle and after lots of wildlife sightings - albatross , cape petrel and many others, penguins rafting through the water, icebergs - excitement mounting every day.    On 12 Feb at 2.30 pm we all met on the bow, horn sounded three blasts and we all drank 'The Adventurer' champagne and celebrated our crossing of the Antarctic Circle.    We see Adelaide Island very clearly  now and can be on the inside of the island due to not much brash ice being around.   Long sheets of ice between mountains, whales blowing off starboard - a truly magnificent sight!       No bar talk as too much happening outside with humpback whales blowing and fluting close by.    Our first landing near Adelaide Island,  the most breathtaking scenery, calm, sunny conditions , way further south than we thought we would travel - 68.13 degrees so everyone very excited.    Horseshoe Island, visit to a British hut, the creamy weddell seals and adelie penguins on our first zodiac cruise.     The kayakers having their first day as well.   So much to tell so will have to condense a bit!    Then around to Marguerite Bay with high mountains either side, glaciers and icebergs.   We visited a few huts, saw many gorgeous icebergs of all  shapes and much wildlife every day, in the most superb weather conditions.   The crew scheduled the first of two evening zodiac cruises and amazing to be out on the water at 9.00 pm to late cruising around high glaciers, tinged blue that come right down to the water, Antarctica cormorants.

We cruised through Crystal Sound - the first time they have achieved this in five years - the most stunning scenery, yes in perfect conditions still - very narrow in parts and difficult for the captain to negotiate.    Detaille Island was so fantastic with the most beautiful tabular glaciers, difficult to describe the emotions associated with this amazing journey.

The crew are fantastic, the professors lecturing very interesting, the food great (too much though), the other passengers so much fun and we have our little group, which keeps extending that we love.   The bar talks in the evening excellent and we cannot fault any part of this.   We have laughed  so much, and Denise has cried with emotion.

The kayakers are having a brilliant time, and Janet had the opportunity to do a sleepover on the ice - three spaces left and she won one in  a ballot so very excited about her experience.      We have been to the Ukraine Verdansky base, great hospitality and other huts.   Have visited Gentoo penguin rookeries watching the interaction between adults and juveniles and skuas diving down to try and grab the babies, and landed on the steep beach at Baily Head to see an astounding sight of chinstrap penguins as far as the eye could see, a windy day and as they were malting feathers flying like a snowstorm.  

Paradise Cove and Skontorp Cove even exceeded the other  excursions - huge glaciers and icebergs and water like glass.  And we could go on forever trying to describe this wonderful expedition but you will have to wait until we get home and sit through an evening of 2000 of Janet´s photos and only 1000 of Denise´s plus the passengers favourites, only 1200    !!

Off now to shop and sightsee in Buenos Aires - see you all Thursday

Love from two adventurous penguins   Denise and Janet  xx