Cuba by Denise

July 2007

After arriving in Havana and meeting our group and tour leader, we were told our whole trip would be done in reverse, so next morning  we were on a flight to Baracoa.    An absolutely basic, but cute town and a great place to start.    Local transport still horse and cart or pedal powered tricycle.   Virtually no cars.   Here we learned about the style of life that the average Cuban is accustomed to.    Ration books, how to live on US$ 20 per month and a few other weird laws that apply.  We checked into our Casa Particular, a very comfortable homestay with delightful owner Jalina to look after us. Our first experience of the strange rules was our dinner.   We were informed that only Government owned hotels were allowed to serve fish, but if we wanted, Jalina could pull some strings.   I have never seen so much lobster, prawns, shrimps etc in my life. Great feed, but all the shells etc had to be disposed of quickly in case the Inspector arrived to check on the place.   She could risk being closed down.   Every casa is allowed a maximum of 2 rooms for guests, plus the use of lounge and dining area, which they pay a tax on.    If by chance we were sitting outside on the deck and were spotted by the inspector, and additional tax is due because of extra luxury being available to guests.   

The Cubans are a wonderful pot pouri of colours and cultures all blended into one.    In the Baracoa area they are very dark, mainly from their heritage from Haiiti or North Africa, but still many of French origin.   As you can imagine they are the best at music and dance and the style is very similar to that of New Orleans.  Walking around the town you soon realise just how poor these people are. They still rely on ration cards for survival.   The card can be taken to the ration stores which are not well stocked. Your entitlement enables a family to acquire approx per month;  5kg rice, 3kg salt, 1kg cooking oil, 1 small bread per day, 4 eggs per fortnight, soya milk for kids under 5, or small pottles of yoghurt for older kids.   Anything else has to be bought, but not sure where as shops are sparse.  While wandering in Baracoa we stumbled across a sewing factory.    Ladies toiling away on old Russian sewing machines with Cuban flag mounted on each one - just so no one forgets who they work for!!   Baracoa is famous for chocolate, really yummy.    In the streets you are often offered chocolate, wrapped nicely, and “borrowed” from the factory.    Another "side effect".

Cuba is a country where you feel totally safe.    Even walking home after a night at the musico, with street lamps flickering on and off, there is still a feeling of security as locals just sit out on their front steps and watch the world go by.    All bid you buenos noches (good night) as you pass by.   I'm really pleased we learned a little Spanish before we left home, as the locals not only appreciate the effort but also get a laugh when we mess it up.   It is great to listen to the Cuban music usually played with very old instruments, but producing a great sound.    I was playing frisbee in the street with some kids one afternoon and heard this amazing music from an old empty corner warehouse.  Seven guys practicing with basic gear, but putting out a beautiful sound.    I rounded up the rest of our troops and we settled in for our own personal concert.

On our arrival in Santiago de Cuba we were invited by the host casa lady to a birthday party for Colm, one of our Irish guys. A traditional affair with guerkin/olive rice dish, fruit, biscuits and 2 big sweet sponges with fluffy meringue icing.   Hanging from the roof were condoms all blown up because they are cheaper than balloons.   One of the nights in Santiago de Cuba we were taken to Military Fort for an evening ceremony dating back to the 15^th century to celebrate sunset and the start of the curfew.    Absolutely weird.  About 12 men and women in white uniforms and high black boots, large brimmed hats and full of officialdom march through an old fort to charge a cannon.   Really fascinating to watch the ceremony and the seriousness of it - hard to stop grinning a bit. The cannon finally went off and fired a cloth "cannon ball" about 200 metres out to sea.    The funny frog march then retreated back to barracks and it was all over. Once again that evening, back to a Casa de la Trova for a good night of great Cuban music and watching the great salsa and son dancing.    With 'son' the dancers use their arms  with great turns.

We are really pleased we did our little trip as Cuba is a destination that has a certain mystique about it. We have learned a huge amount, but feel we still do not understand the place much more now than before.  It sure is one crazy mixed up country.

Denise & Husband (Tony)